Flea 101

The dog flea.

Ctenocephalides canis.

Has a 2-3 week life cycle that consists of an egg, larvae, pupa and adult. The female adult flea has a blood meal, then lays about 15-20 eggs. Those eggs are laid in the dog's coat and can drop off anywhere that the dog frequents. (Which translates to anywhere in your house!) Eggs hatch anywhere from two days to two weeks later and the larvae find any crack or crevice in your house to snuggle up and make their cocoon. That cocoon stage is the pupa. In ten to fifteen days, the cocoon hatches and the fleas hang around waiting to detect vibration or heat, an indication that a host is nearby. They find that host and hop on, only to start the process all over again!

Newly emerged adult fleas live only about one week if a blood meal is not obtained. However, completely developed adult fleas can live for several months without eating, so long as they do not emerge from their puparia. Optimum temperatures for the flea's life cycle are 70°F to 85°F and optimum humidity is 70 percent. (Sounds like our current weather, doesn't it?!)

Treating your dog for fleas consists of a flea dip, medication to prevent fleas from attaching to the skin (aka Frontline or Advantage), fogging your home every two and a half weeks until the first frost to kill all stages of the flea, spreading pesticides in your yard every two and a half weeks to kill all stages of the fleas in your yard, spraying your cars with flea spray that kills all stages of the flea, washing all rugs, linens, clothing etc. in hot soapy water, and lots and lots of praying that you can get the problem under control. Let me repeat...Make sure that the products you use include an IGR (insect growth regulator) which eliminates all stages of the flea.

Good insecticides include: methoprene + permethrin, pyriproxyfen + permethrin, resmethrin, allethrin, pyrethrins, tetramethrin, rotenone and propoxur (Baygon). The Robin's Nest on Route 50 carries excellent products for your yard. The Sargeant's and Zodiac flea sprays and foggers have been effective for us. I am now trying a natural flea/tick spray by Sargeant's on my dog because she seems to pick up fleas every time we let her outside.

Vacuum, vacuum, vacuum. This gets rid of anything that has snuggled in to breed. Have a large supply of vacuum bags on hand because you must put each vacuum bag into a plastic bag, tie tightly and dispose of it immediately. Fleas will breed in your vacuum bag. I have been told that moth flakes will prevent this, but why take a chance?

The Humane Society is your friend. They will come out and set humane traps on your property to catch the stray, flea-infested cats that your elderly neighbor insists on feeding, therefore infecting your yard and dog with fleas. I have a phone number for an animal control officer for Caroline County if you ever need it.

Even if you've never seen a flea in your home or on your dog, they can be there. Trust me, I know. Once you identify that there have been fleas on your dog, you must start treating your dog, yard, and home. What an exterminator does is no different than what you can do, but it costs less for you to do it yourself. Less is a relative word. I've spent over $250 in the past week, but who's counting!? It still has to be less than an exterminator.

Getting rid of fleas is an exhausting process. You and your family will get that feeling that you have bugs crawling on you and that you itch constantly. Of course, it's psychological, but it doesn't stop the feeling!

Flea 101. I am now an expert. I've passed the test.

Acknowledgements: Kathy at Top of the Bay is my bestest friend! She knows everything there is to know and is supportive and ever willing to help. The staff at Veterinary Medical Center (an accredited veterinarian, I might add) is fabulous, too. I strongly recommend them to anyone who has a pet.